Friday, April 29, 2011

Togs and Jandals

We have been busy settling into New Zealand life over the last few weeks. To help us save money through the winter we have decided to stay with families and work in exchange for room and board. This is quite common in New Zealand and there are several websites set up to assist travelers. The largest site is wwoof.co.nz (willing workers on organic farms). Hosts listing on that site are supposed to be organic and many of them only offer vegetarian cuisine and from what we have heard can be a little more strict with their house rules. The other website that is somewhat common, and the one we are using, is helpx.net. It allows hosts to list regardless of their organic status and even allows people without farms (catering businesses or roadside fruit stands) to list their place if they want help. The general rule for these sites is that the worker is expected to work 4 hours a day (or work a full day and then get a day off) every day except Sunday and the host is expected to provide all meals and a place to sleep. There is also a website, backpackerboard.co.nz, that travelers can use to look for jobs if they prefer to work longer hours and get paid for the work.

Because we were buying a car, it was hard for us to pin down the date that we would be leaving Auckland so we waited until we purchased a car and then started e-mailing hosts to ask if they had an opening. Most hosts that we wanted to stay with did not have an opening and by our last night in Auckland we were beginning to worry that we wouldn’t have a place to stay the next night. At the last minute one of the hosts that we had e-mailed called us back and said that he would be happy to have us. We left Auckland and went straight to the 200+ acre lifestyle block (property that people own to experience rural life, but usually have other income off the property) just outside of the town of Waimauku that our first hosts live on.

Our first hosts, Tim and Kelley, have 3 children, Taylor (10), Jack (6) and Ella (almost 5). Tim has owned a variety of businesses over the years and currently runs a small chain of auto parts stores. Tim bought part of his father’s old farm and has moved onto the property to give his kids a taste of the rural lifestyle. He is currently renovating the building on the property to make them useful again and is also building a number of new rental houses on the property to provide an additional source of income. We spent our first couple of days chopping thistles in the pastures. Thistles and gorse are a big problem on the place and they are working to get them under control. On the Friday after we arrived, Tim left to go to a business trip to Asia. During our first weekend with the family Kelley took us on a drive around the area and showed us a few of the touristy areas that we hadn’t seen yet. Jenni spent the next week working around the house helping with cleaning and gardening projects. I spent my time working on a wide variety of projects including planting bushes and trees, building a raised garden and painting a renovated milk shed. During the next week Tim and Kelley got the news that their current au pair was leaving unexpectedly and they offered Jenni the position. They also offered me a job helping to build their newest rental house when the plans get approved. We thought about it a couple of days before we committed to working for them from May through July. We won’t make much, but it will give us a good base in the north part of New Zealand where we can hide from most of the cold. We will also have weekends off so that we can take trips to see most of the points of interest in this part of the country.

Before we committed to working for Tim and Kelley we had already arranged to stay with another helpx host starting on 24th April. Jenni didn’t need to start working until 7th May so after spending Easter morning with Tim and Kelley, we headed further north to our next hosts. Paul and Fiona live a little outside of the small town of Ruawai close to where the Wairoa River enters Kaipara Harbour. Paul owns a ranch and manages his father’s ranch which is right next to his ranch. Paul buys holstien bull calves from dairy farmers and fattens them up for slaughter and eventual export to the US and Fiona works in an eye clinic. Paul and Fiona have two children, Natasha and Liam who are very active. Jenni has been working around the house and garden and I have been working on the ranch moving stock, vaccinating new stock and fencing. Paul and Fiona’s house is on a hill that overlooks the harbour and from their deck they have a wonderful view of the sunsets. It’s been fun for me to experience how different farms in New Zealand can be from the farm that I grew up on and I hope that I will get to experience more before we leave.

On the 28th we took a day off from working and drove into Dargaville to get our car registration renewed. After getting our registration renewed, we headed further north to visit what remains of the Kauri forests. Kauri trees were used sparingly by the Maoris to make their large canoes, but were mostly logged out by the Europeans. There are a few large trees remaining and we hiked out to take a look at them. The largest living Kauri tree is called Tane Mahuta and is 51 meters tall and 13.8 meters around. It was raining the whole time we visited the forest which seemed appropriate as it is considered a temperate rain forest.



Even though we are settling in, there are still a few things that we are getting used to:

I’ve only driven on the right side of the road once.
We are usually driving around at 100.
The temperature is usually around 20 degrees and we are hot.
Possums are a cute animal with fur that is desirable for making clothing or blankets.
People keep telling us to get our togs and jandals on so we can go to the beach.

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Auckland

 It’s hard to believe that we arrived in Auckland just over one week ago. During our first couple of days in Auckland it felt like we had arrived in the fastest moving and largest city in the world. After settling in we have decided that you probably feel like that about any place you go after French Polynesia. Auckland is not a large city and the traffic is only bad on the highways during rush hour. It reminds me a lot of Portland, Oregon with its downtown parks, tree lined roads and a wonderful variety of restaurants.

We have been spending our nights in a hostel on Queen Street (the main street of downtown Auckland), but our days have been spent wandering around the City and completing paperwork. The first couple of days were spent exploring Queen Street from top to bottom. At the bottom of Queen Street (the north end) is the harbor and we spent some time sitting on the wharf watching the sailboats dodge the cruise ships. Upper Queen Street (the south end) is full of restaurants. We ate one of our dinners at a French restaurant and left our passports there which cause a mild panic the next morning before we went back to the restaurant and retrieved them.

Our first long walk off of Queen Street was to Auckland Domain, a park to the south of downtown Auckland. In the park we visited the Wintergardens and the museum. The Wintergardens have a fernery attached to them which contains a wide variety of the ferns that grow in New Zealand including some that are as big as a small tree. It gave us a good idea why the silver fern is used in many of the national symbols of New Zeland. The museum includes cultural history, natural history and war memorials but we were only able to make it through the first two floors which were the cultural history and natural history portions of the museum. The next day we took another long hike up to Mt Eden, the highest volcano within Auckland City. From the top of Mt Eden we had a spectacular view of downtown Auckland and enjoyed basking in the sun of a warm fall day. We took the long way back from Mt Eden and grabbed meat pies from one of the wonderful eateries along Ponsonby Road.

On Sunday we got serious about buying a car and walked to Ellerslie Racecourse where the Auckland car fair was being held. We found a car that we really liked and arranged for a pre-purchase inspection to be done the next day. A really nice mechanic did the inspection the next day and informed us that the car hadn’t been serviced regularly and had a number of problems so we ended up not getting the car. It felt like we had wasted two days and we were frustrated that we were still in Auckland with no clear way of making it out of the city. Today we went to a used car dealer and found a car that had been owned by a car rental company. It turns out that in New Zealand cars owned by car rental companies are subject to stricter commercial standards and are supposedly serviced on a regular basis. We bought the car so here’s hoping that it’s true. The car isn’t much to look at, but hopefully it will get us around the country without too many problems.

This evening we also found our first farmstay host. They live 35 minutes northwest of downtown Auckland on a sheep and beef ranch. We will head out there tomorrow morning and find out what kind of work we will be doing for the next week or two.